How To Get The Best Out Of Manual Focus On Olympus Cameras

How To Get The Best Out Of Manual Focus On Olympus Cameras

Almost all of the Olympus cameras and lenses make it very easy to switch from autofocus to manual focus mode.

Why would you want manual focus? Any time you need precise control over focus, manual focus is your best bet. For me, a working example would be when I am using ProCapture to photograph birds landing on and taking off from a perch. I set a focus target on the perch where I think the bird will land (see illustration below.) I switch to manual focus and then aim at the target, lock in my focus and then I forget about it. I am going to be pressing the shutter button when birds enter the plane of focus. Since birds move quickly and change direction quickly, and since there is always a potential for the background to confuse the autofocus in those fast-moving situations, I prefer manual focus.

Screen Shot 2020-01-20 at 9.48.05 AM

There are many ways to switch to manual focus (including using the AF dial or the Super Control panel,) but my favorite method is to use the Manual Focus Clutch which is a feature on many Olympus lenses. For bird photography, I usually use the M.Zuiko 40-150 f/2.8 Pro lens or the M.Zuiko 300 f/4 IS Pro Lens. Both of these lenses support MF clutch, manual focus activation.

Screen Shot 2020-01-20 at 9.03.22 AM.jpg

The clutch mechanism makes it possible to switch between AF and MF by simply repositioning the focus ring.

Pull the clutch towards you to activate manual focus and push it away from you to activate autofocus. Note that this works regardless of the focus mode you have selected in the camera menu. The MF clutch overrides the camera setting.

You can disable the MF clutch. Press the Manu button, select the gear icon for Custom Menu A4 – then highlight MF Clutch using the arrows on the keypad to select operative or inoperative.

Screen Shot 2020-01-20 at 9.05.58 AM.jpg

If you ever plan to use manual focus on your camera, you must have this switch set to operative.

While you are in this menu, I also suggest you select MF Assist and use the arrows on the keypad to MF Assist MAGNIFY. This way, whenever you use the MF Clutch to start acquiring manual focus, the image will zoom in for you to help you to see whether or not you have achieved critical focus. This is a great feature for old guys like me who don’t see as well as they used to.

My next piece of advice is to make sure you enable focus peaking (Peaking Settings.) Focus peaking highlights objects using color outlines. This makes objects that are in focus easier to see during manual focus operation.

You will find this by pressing the Menu button on the back of the camera. Then select the gear icon. Then select the D3 tab and go to Peaking Settings. This allows you to adjust the peaking color (I generally prefer red) and the highlight setting (I generally prefer high.) Lastly, this allows you to adjust background brightness to make focus peaking easier to see (I generally prefer this to be set to on.)

CONCLUSION

Once you have your camera properly setup to take advantage of manual focus, you can always count on having everything ready to go when you get that once in a lifetime chance to make a great shot that requires critical focus.

NOTE: Please read your camera and lens manual to make sure your products have these features. And if you are using anything other than an Olympus OM-D E-M1 MKII or X, you may find the instructions I gave you don’t make sense. You’ll potentially find the items I discussed in different menus. Check the camera manual to find your exact settings.


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4 Responses

  1. Hey Scott,

    Thanks for this tip. I have a couple of ideas I’ve been toying with for situations like this, and I think the features of our Olympus cameras may help.

    First, using Back Button Focus to achieve focus on the area you want to shoot quickly, then you are able to leave it alone until you want to refocus somewhere else.

    Second, a little more complicated and over the top, but it allows you to use auto focus and the camera to not be distracted by the background. Using the focus limiter to preset a distance range that is a little before and behind the primary subject, in this case the perch. In order to determine the distance to the perch, I was considering using my inexpensive laser measuring tape, it even has a 1/4″ tripod mount and could be hung off the side of the tripod.

    I know that second one is a little over the top, but I thought using this method with focusing distances, would allow the camera to stay locked in a little more as the birds approach and depart the perch.

    Interested to hear your thoughts. Keep sharing your work and your advice.

    Thanks,
    Jeff

    1. Hi Jeff both those could work but:

      1. I am not a BB focus fan and it messes with my muscle memory so for me it is a non-starter. Additionally, one of the benefits of pro-capture is using the remote release and simply watching the scene with your naked eye – not looking at the EVF or monitor. Reconfiguring everything so you could still use remote release is not something that makes sense in the situation you suggested. If you don’t mind giving up remote release then your suggestion has more merit – if the photographer likes BB focus that is.
      2. The second suggestion is less likely to be successful because the thing in the background may be a tree limb just a few feet behind the bird and the focus limiter isn’t that precise.

      I have actually successfully used C-AF on Pro-Capture, but my manual method works 95% of the time so I just use what works. Your mileage may vary.

      Thanks.

  2. I’m happy to report that the same settings are available in the E-M5 MKIII.

    The E-M10 MKII does not have a setting to disable the lens clutch (The lens clutch is always operative). It does offer the MF assist settings in its Custom Menu A section.

  3. Great article Scott.

    If you use either the 2x digital zoom, or the higher range of digital zoom you can get very precise focusing.

    Also, you can use the DOF preview button to actually see what’s in focus and what isn’t. DOF preview never worked very well on DSLRs, but on mirrorless cameras its really cool. It can even be combined with focus peaking.

    To expand on what Jeff Sweet said, you can use BBF to get the focusing close, and if you have your camera set to use the +MF you can then tweak it to be even more accurate using the stuff above.

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