What’s In Scott Bourne’s Camera Bag?
DISCLAIMER: I will refer to crop factors in this presentation. It’s important to know that crop factor and the associated focal length multiplier only affects field of view. I prefer to reference this as effective focal length (EFL) but others use FOV. Feel free to use whichever term you like. Also please note I am an Olympus Visionary, but I made my switch to Olympus cameras before that honor was offered to me, and I paid for the gear I bought when I switched. I simply mention my status here by way of disclosure.
NOTE: I will regularly update this post when I add something to or change something in my camera bag. Bookmark it if you want to stay up on the latest changes. Also note that where prices are mentioned, they were accurate at the time of publication and are subject to change.
Are you interested in getting started with bird (wildlife) photography or are you looking to take your shooting to the next level? Believe it or not you can do it using Micro Four Thirds gear. I have made some great portraits, birdscapes and even flight shots with this gear, and even made salable prints from the RAW files I get from my Olympus cameras. I’ve had my images from Olympus cameras used in articles and on web sites, used on television shows published in Outdoor Photographer Magazine, Birdwatching Magazine, Outdoor Photography Magazine and others – all images made with M43, mirrorless cameras. Three books were published in 2018 using my photos and one book was exclusively made of photos from my Olympus camera. My photographs hung at an international wildlife photography exhibition in China and my pictures were enlarged to 28″ on the longest side for an art book. Pictures from my camera have hung at international trade shows. My images have been used on greeting cards and made into posters. In every case, the quality of my pictures from this gear meets or beats that coming from other cameras I used to shoot with.
One of my favorite things about the switch to Micro Four Thirds gear is that it makes bird photography more accessible. For some, there is no other option. Many people who love birds and bird photography simply can’t physically carry or effectively wield the large, heavy full-frame gear that most associate with bird photography. Still others can’t come up with the $20-$30k that it costs to grab a couple of Canon 1DX bodies with telephoto lenses.
If you need to save space, weight or money, rest assured that the Micro Four Thirds gear I discuss here will get you some great results. I use this gear exclusively and have seen my keeper rate actually go up, because I can shoot longer than I used to when I carried the heavy full-frame DSLR.
This gear is expensive compared to some Micro Four Thirds setups, but it’s a bargain comparing to some other options.
If you have seen my gear guides in the past, do yourself a favor and read this one. There are several new items and I have made some significant changes to this version of the guide. As always, if you have questions about any of this I’ll try to help. Just email me – firstname.lastname@example.org.
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Now on to the gear…
Ultimately, you need to get a camera body with excellent auto-focus, a high frame rate, a good buffer, and the ability to use fast, long glass.
My first choice is the Olympus OM-D E-M1X. This is the flagship body from Olympus and it is specifically designed for bird/wildlife/sports shooters. In other words, photographers who need amazing image stabilization, high frame rates and the ability to work with long glass. It has the best autofocus of any mirrorless or Micro Four Thirds camera. It even has tracking autofocus that, depending on your subject, uses machine learning to more accurately capture moving subjects. It has a fixed battery grip that works with two batteries and controls that can be easily accessed whether or not you are shooting horizontally or vertically.
I’ve written more about the Olympus OM-D E-M1X here in the gear review category.
My second choice is the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III.
The Mark III is just faster, and better all the way around than the cameras that preceed it. The TruePic IX processor is more important than you realize. If you are an OM-D E-M1X owner and thinking this would make a great backup body, you’d be correct. If you’re a photographer who needs a pro body, but a smaller form factor than currently found in the OM-D E-M1X, this is your camera.
At the end of the day, all cameras are just tools. And the worst camera in the hands of a great pro will produce compelling images. Likewise, the Cadillac of cameras in the hands of a rank amateur may under-perform. But if you want the best tools in order to give yourself the best chance to express your photographic vision, you owe it to yourself to check out the Mark III.
The autofocus points on either Olympus camera body cover a wider area of the viewfinder than the AF points on any DSLR. Very few cameras in the world can match the Olympus when it comes to active AF points with a teleconverter attached. This is an incredible advantage for people who need the extra reach offered by a teleconverter or an accurate AF.
What about full-frame? At some point you can’t defeat physics. Full-frame DSLRs do have a very small advantage in low-light because of their larger sensor. But given the size, cost and weight advantages, any shots I would miss due to the camera’s sensor size are made up for in shots I get because I can work longer without getting tired. Beyond that, for most people, the cost of a 1DX MK II is simply out of reach. On the Canon side, the Canon 7D MK II is a crop-sensor camera that most entry-level bird photographers gravitate to and in my opinion, given the heavy lenses you have to use to make it work, it simply pales in comparison to the Olympus MK II. I think the Olympus body is better in every way except in some cases where the autofocus is a little faster in low-light on the Canon 7D MK II.
Another advantage of the Olympus bodies is the in-camera stabilization, especially when paired with a lens like the Olympus 300 f/4 Pro Lens. No other camera body I am aware of can match it. I often shoot the 300 f/4 with the Olympus 1.4 teleconverter for an effective focal length of 840mm and I handheld the shot at 1/90th of a second!!! This is unheard of performance. In my entire career using Canon or Nikon 600mm lenses with teleconverters I never once – not one time – got a decent shot trying to hand hold.
By the way, the battery life in the Mark II camera is the best I’ve ever seen from a Micro Four Thirds camera body. I can get by on two batteries per day, no problem. So I do carry a spare battery – Olympus BLH-1 Lithium-Ion Battery – 7.4V, 1720mAh. The OM-D E-M1 X has similarly great battery life and uses the same battery as the Mark II.
The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III Mirrorless Micro Four Thirds Digital Camera would make a good step-up camera for those who want to switch but can’t afford the OM-D E-M1 Mark II or X versions. Even though it costs less than $600, it makes a very capable bird portrait camera. It doesn’t contain the fast autofocus found in the other bodies, but if all you are doing is photographing captive birds or tame birds, or can get close enough for bird portraits, it is a very fine choice.
Blogging / Casual Camera
I am starting to shoot more BTS stuff on video and for that job I love the little Olympus PEN E-PL9 Mirrorless Micro Four Thirds Digital Camera with 14-42mm Lens. This inexpensive kit performs more like a camera costing twice as much. It does 4K video and the image quality is amazing given the price point. I use this camera more than I expected to because it is just plain fun. It would make a good backup camera for some photographers and would also act as an excellent vacation camera.
Believe it or not I also bring an action camera with me when I travel for bird photography. And I have tried many, including GoPro, etc., but by far, my favorite is the Olympus Tough TG-6. This camera is virtually indestructible. I carried the older version, the TG-5 with me on trips to four different continents. You can get it wet, cold, and even drop it and the camera just keeps working. It’s great for grab shots, for social media posts, for video that I sometimes need for BTS, there are lots of potential uses.
The problem with bird photography is that it is often very expensive because of the telephoto lenses favored by avian shooters. Big glass costs big bucks. There are things you can do to mitigate costs, but when it boils down to selecting where to spend the bulk of your money, you can’t go wrong with buying good glass. You may not need the super long glass if you’re lucky enough to live in a place like Florida where the birds are unbelievably tame, or if you have the luxury of working from blinds that are close to the action.
A new addition to this list as of today is the superb, and in every way awesome, M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 150-400mm Super Zoom!!!
With the MC-20 teleconverter, this lens can get you to 2000mm EFL! Even without an external teleconverter, the internal teleconverter gets you to 1000mm EFL and it is very hand-holdable, even at that focal range! Just let that sit in a moment. It’s a dream lens for bird and wildlife photographers and I guarantee you that many dedicated professionals will switch to Olympus just for this lens. At $7500 (US) this lens is a bargain. Some will say that is too expensive, but they have almost certainly never priced the full-frame super zooms that can cost almost twice as much.
My next lens pick is the incredible Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 300mm f/4 IS PRO Lens. It’s a sub-$2500, stabilized telephoto lens with an EFL of 600mm at f/4! It also pairs well with an Olympus 1.4 teleconverter to get you 840mm in a hand-holdable lens that costs about 1/4th its full-frame equal. It’s one of the sharpest lenses I have ever used.
Long, telephoto lenses are crucially important to bird photographers. For years I shot with Canon’s $11,499 600 f/4 IS L lens. The Olympus 300 replaces that lens in my kit and is just as sharp, (if not sharper) allows just as much light to pass through (wide open) but weighs five pounds less, (Canon 8.75 lbs v. Olympus 3.25 lbs) close focuses to 4.59 feet (as compared to 14.76 feet on the Canon,) costs $9,000 less and is roughly half the size.
The close focusing distance advantage is truly amazing. It allows for close up pictures that fill the frame even when working very close to the subject. The color rendition, sharpness, contrast and clarity from that lens are all state-of-the-art. I’ve had the privilege of owning some of the best camera lenses in the world. This one belongs on that list.
The 300mm lens is fast to focus and its image stabilization is also state-of-the-art. These are all very important to bird photographers. Being able to hand-hold a lens with this kind of reach is amazing. You can also usually get by with any old ball head on your tripod. While a gimbal head always helps, if you can’t afford one or can’t find room for one, it’s not absolutely necessary when using this lens.
Along with the 300, I highly recommend the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital MC-14 1.4x Teleconverter which is also state-of-the-art. It has very little negative impact on overall image quality or autofocus speed. Compared to the more expensive Canon teleconverter, it offers slightly better image quality and slightly faster autofocus.
I also recommend the Olympus MC-20 M.Zuiko Digital 2x Teleconverter. This is the newest piece of gear in my bag and it turns the 300 f/4 IS Pro into a 1200mm (EFL) f/8 lens that is actually possible to hand-hold. It will take practice to get the most out of this teleconverter because a 2X magnification magnifies everything – including poor technique, but I am already impressed with it in the few tests I’ve run.
The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO Lens is my mid-range flight lens. Offering long reach with an advanced feature-set and optical design, it’s a versatile 80-300mm equivalent telephoto zoom. As part of the PRO series of advanced lenses, this zoom distinguishes itself with a bright f/2.8 constant maximum aperture for consistent illumination throughout the zoom range to suit working in a variety of lighting conditions. Its optical design makes use of a series of aspherical and low dispersion glass elements to suppress chromatic and spherical aberrations for notable sharpness and clarity, and a ZERO coating is also used to reduce flare and ghosting for high contrast, color-accurate imaging.
More than 70% of my best eagle shots on my last Alaska trip were made with the 40-150mm zoom lens.
I do want to mention that the lens hood supplied for this lens by Olympus (LH-76) is sub par. I have had two fail on me and that is typical. I have replaced my Olympus hood with a 72mm rubber lens hood.
I use the Promaster 72mm Rubber Lens Hood. It does a great job and won’t ever break.
Another lens I use to round out my bird photography kit is the Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-100mm f/4 IS PRO Lens. While I usually prefer primes to zooms, this zoom is very special and very versatile. While I don’t shoot much in this focal range, when I need to do so, this lens is very easy to pack and very reliable.
One thing I want to note about the 12-100 is that it is tack sharp throughout the range – whether you are wide at 12mm or long at 100mm, you don’t sacrifice sharpness.
Benefitting handling, the expansive zoom range is an optical image stabilization system that works in conjunction with this lens and select cameras’ you get up to 6.5 stops of stabilization. A Movie & Still Compatible (MSC) high-speed imager AF system provides quick, accurate, and quiet focusing performance well-suited to both photo and video applications, and a manual focus clutch permits fast changing to MF for more precise control. Additionally, a lens function button is featured on the side of the barrel for direct settings adjustment, and the lens also features a weather-sealed construction for use in trying environmental conditions.
If you are on a budget, there is one sleeper lens for bird photography that is a must have. The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75-300mm f/4.8-6.7 II Lens doesn’t get much love because it’s not one of Olympus’ Pro Lenses and it is slower than the Pro zooms at f/6.7 when fully zoomed out to the EFL of 600mm, but I can guarantee you that this lens is very sharp. It’s also very compact and very lightweight. It is an amazing focal range of 150 to 600mm EFL, and is very easily something you can hand hold, all day long. It provides clear, color accurate, contrasty images that often compare with what you get from the more expensive lenses. I own every single lens that Olympus makes, including the Pro glass, but sometimes, I just grab this little guy because he is so small and lightweight and I have never been disappointed.
Flash & Accessories
Some people wrongly assume that a camera flash bothers birds. It absolutely does not in almost any circumstance, except when a bird is sitting on a nest with eggs in it. And even then, depending on the species it may be no problem. The smaller the bird the more likely the flash is to bother it in that situation. While somewhat controversial in some circles, I have no problem with using flash on wildlife photos.
Now just because I can use flash doesn’t mean I do. In fact, the circumstances that require flash are rare. Accordingly, I don’t use flash very often, but when I am working close and against a backlit subject, flash is great to fill in the shadow side. The Olympus FL-900R Electronic Flash is always in my bag or my vest just in case.
I use the Vello Off-Camera TTL Flash Cord for Olympus/Panasonic Cameras or you can try the Promaster Deluxe TTL Off-Camera Cord to get the flash off the camera for better, more flattering, lighting.
The MAGMOD MagBeam Wildlife Kit Collapsible Flash Diffuser is what I use instead of a Better Beamer Flash Extender. This diffuser lets me soften the light that covers the bird and does so without costing too much light. It also extends the flash range which is important when using big, telephoto glass.
For hummingbird photography I use a four flash setup. I use four FL-900R flash units and they are triggered wirelessly using one Olympus FC-WR Wireless Radio Flash Commander, and four Olympus FR-WR Wireless Radio Flash Receivers. This is a flawless setup and much easier to manage than when I relied on sync cables. That said, I always bring the cables as backup, just in case.
Avian photography is one of the rare photographic pursuits where the equipment can often make the difference between getting a shot or not. Telephoto lenses are hard to stabilize without a tripod. That said, I can, and do, often shoot without a tripod now that I have switched. But there are times (in low-light for instance) where a tripod can help. I often use a tripod or even a monopod if for no other reason than to rest my arms and let the gear do all the work.
I have switched tripods four times in the last two years because I keep finding tripods that work better for me in certain situations. More on that below. But first I want to talk about my preferred mounting system.
I use the “Arca-Swiss” tongue and groove system to mount my cameras and lenses. The Olympus 300 f/4 Pro Lens has an Arca-compatible lens foot built right in. The 40-150 f/2.8 Pro Lens does require a lens foot. The 12-100 f/4 Pro Lens can be mounted to the camera and then the camera mounted to a tripod because it isn’t a big, large, heavy lens.
Kirk Photo makes high-quality, affordable Arca-Swiss compatible plates. You can also find lots of Chinese knock-offs on Ebay and Amazon, but I don’t recommend them.
This is my newest tripod. The Benro TMA38CL Long Series 3 Mach3 Carbon Fiber Tripod is extremely capable yet, priced under $400. It is as sturdy as it gets and it comes from a company with a long history of success in the camera support business. If it ever does break, you can easily get parts for it and get it repaired which is one of the reasons why I switched to this brand.
I am not always into carrying a big tripod so as a backup, I use the Induro.
The Induro Grand Turismo GTT104M1 Carbon 8X travel tripod with BHM1 Ballhead is lighter than my old tripod and comes with a perfectly matched ballhead. For the money, you can’t find anything that beats this quality. It’s more of a travel tripod and now that I am exclusively using M43 cameras and lenses, I don’t need something that is super beefy.
When I need a gimbal I also made a change and am using the Promaster GH30C Professional Carbon Fiber Gimbal Head. The GH30C is a multi-purpose gimbal that does it all. Its smooth-control handle forms a leverage point for exceptional maneuverability in tracking moving objects and capturing video footage. Tension is controlled at both the arm and the base of the GH30C. And you can rely on this gimbal to perform well in frigid conditions due to its excellent cold weather performance.
If you want an even smaller and less expensive tripod, buy the Induro CLT103 Stealth Carbon Fiber 3-Section Tripod. It is the tripod you want if you are on a budget. It’s probably not gonna last as long as an expensive tripod from someone like Really Right Stuff, but my guess is that the vast majority of the people reading this don’t need anything better, me included. It has great specs for the money – Load Capacity: 30.9 lbs.
I have traditionally relied on gimbal heads, but more and more, I just don’t need one because my camera is so light I can either handhold it or mount it to a monopod. Lately I’ve grown partial to a very interesting piece of gear called the UniqBall UBH 45XC Ball Head with X-Cross Clamp. It allows me to absolutely guarantee a level horizon no matter what but still allows side-to-side movement.
It is Arca-type compatible ball head, which also functions as a pan-and-tilt, gimbal, or video fluid head. It has a built-in leveling base with a separate tension-controlled inner panning ball. The bidirectional X-Cross clamp has more than one entrance point, enabling lens plates or macro focusing rails to enter straight, and camera plates to enter from the side. The head is capable of holding even the heaviest camera/lens combo so it’s as sturdy as can be with a M43 system.
I’ve added the Benro B2 Double Action Ball Head to my kit for when I am using lighter camera/lens combos (such as the Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mk III & 12-45mm Lens. It has a load Capacity: 35.2 lb and is only 3.9″ and weighs less than a pound. It’s sturdy and I like the fact that it has separate drag adjustment and lock knobs.
More often than not, when I don’t use a tripod, I do heavily rely on a monopod. The Manfrotto MPMXPROC5US Carbon Fiber XPRO Monopod+ is light, strong and and stands taller than most monopods. It’s inexpensive compared to the monopod I used to carry. You can use this monopod with the Olympus 300 f/4 Pro Lens and walk around all day without getting tired. My main reason for choosing a monopod is that it allows me to rest my arms. I use the Benro DJ90 Monopod Tilt Head to make the monopod perform more like a tripod.
From the “You Never Know When You Will Need This” category, I also keep the Induro Baby Grand 2-Section Carbon Fiber Tripod in my bag. The Baby Grand Induro GIHH75CP with 75mm platform (3 Series) is perfect for those ultra low angle shots. Designed to be used with all lenses including ultra long lenses and all formats including large formats and video cameras. Ideal for macro photography, unique low angle perspectives whether you are in the studio or the field.
If you want another idea for stabilizing your camera that is ultra portable, as in it will fit in any small bag or maybe even your pocket, look no further than the Platypod Max Camera Support. (There are smaller, cheaper versions available too.)
The Platypod Pro Max Camera Support is a wide, stable, and ultra low-profile platform that allows you to set up a large tripod head, camera, and lens on both horizontal and vertical surfaces.
Measuring 5.3 x 7.8″ and only 0.2″ thick, the Pro Max Camera Support allows you to photograph or record with a camera that is elevated only slightly higher than the tripod head it is used with. Four reversible, spiked feet that each feature rubber tips on one end can be distributed among five strategically placed, 1/4″-20 threaded holes. Once installed, they can be adjusted to level the platform on uneven surfaces, both indoors and out. For placement on unconventional surfaces and angles, two 2-inch belt shots allow the Pro Max Camera Support to be secured to a cylindrical object or to be taped onto angled floors. Two nail holes are included for permanent or semi-permanent mounting to walls, boards or ceilings; and for quick placement and removal from conventional tripods or quick release devices, 1/4″-20 and 3/8″-16 threaded holes are on the underside of the platform. You will need a ballhead for this unit, but when you want a stable camera and can’t bring a tripod, this is often a great substitute.
I also like to shoot from my car, using it as a blind. For this I suggest the Kirk WM-2 Multi-Purpose Window Mount for Tripod Head.
It is the best window mount unit I’ve ever tested, but it’s pretty expensive and may be overkill for some situations. There’s no denying it gives you a super stable shooting platform. If you prefer, the Gura Gear Sabi Sack Bean Bag functions almost as well, but does take practice to get used to.
If you want to mount GoPro or action cameras like the Olympus TG-6 to a smooth or flat surface, the Delkin Devices Fat Gecko Dual-Suction Camera Mount is a great choice. It is primarily designed to eliminate vibration while being used on moving objects, (like my work truck) and it allows you to safely capture professional stills & videos from unique, exciting perspectives using a no-hands approach.
As for camera straps – I like the Peak Design SL-BK-3 Slide Camera Strap because it can quickly clip on or off and will hold the Olympus camera body with the 300mm f/4 Pro Lens.
I don’t use many actual filters on my lenses, but there are times I want a polarizer or an ND filter (mostly for video.) My new favorite is the Breakthrough Photography X4 CPL is my choice. It’s great for cutting reflections and warming a scene. 77mm with step down rings can be used on most lenses. The X4 CPL is built to withstand extreme wind, salt water, dust and other abrasive conditions and elements where other filters may fail. It has a 25 year guarantee.
At $150 (available from Hunt’s Photo & Video or direct from the manufacturer, these filters are a steal. I also use their ND filters because of similar reasons.
Lastly, in the filters category, I like to use step-up or step-down rings so I can limit the number of filters I carry into the field. You can find these step rings on Ebay or Amazon for around $10. But they are cheap, flimsy, aluminum that quickly binds and they become worthless.
So while they cost a lot more, I highly recommend the Breakthrough Photography step rings. I guarantee you that you have never seen a step ring that is so well-made. The Breakthrough Photography step rings are made with brass and then the company applies a matte black electroplated finish, which withstands corrosion and other abrasive elements often encountered in outdoor photography. The result is a step ring that is very easy to take on and off, never binding. The ring is about three times heavier than the aluminum versions, and very well made. It just doesn’t stick like the aluminum rings.
The Think Tank Photo Airport Security V3.0 is far and away my favorite travel bag. It holds all my bird photography gear and can be either rolled through an airport or carried on my back. It’s very versatile, strong, and flexible.
When I am traveling light, or need to have a smaller carry-on (as required in international travel or for flights on regional jets) I use the ThinkTank Airport Advantage. It’s smaller than the Security model and will fit under the seat of any regional jet I’ve ever flown on.
For carrying gear to the field – I used to rely on Pelican cases, but I had two problems – i.e., two different cases had latch failures due to warping. So now – when I have to ship my gear, I rely exclusively on Think Tank Photo Stand Manager 52 Light Stand Carrying Case.
- Crush resistant ABS twin-wall provides end-to-end reinforcement
- Oversized, shock-absorbing wheels roll smoothly and hold up under the toughest conditions
- 52” of internal height for those extra large modifiers or gel rolls
Great, sturdy, cases.
Sadly, I had to say goodbye to one of my favorite backpacks ever when I bought the MacBook Pro 16″ computer. It won’t fit in my old (but loved) Lowepro bag so I set about shopping for a new one.
The Samsonite Tectonic Lifestyle Sweetwater Backpack is my new choice. At $80 it’s probably $30 more than it should cost, but I found it to offer the best features for my needs.
The padded laptop compartment holds a laptop measuring up to 17 inches securely, while the main compartment lets you organize documents for short business trips. It has lots of storage space and different zippered compartments. It also has a USB port for on the go charging (personal cable and battery not included), Interior main compartment folders can be used for document organization or compressed and used for additional packing space, and it meets TSA carry-on requirements.
This is the second bag I carry on airplanes (other than puddle jumpers) and it has served me well in my first month of testing.
When it comes to organizing everything from spare memory cards to cables and even small tools, the newest addition to my bag collection is the Peak Design Travel Tech Pouch. Like everything from Peak Design, it’s very well-conceived, sturdy and a little expensive, but well worth it. I used to fuss over trying to keep all my photo/electronic accessories organized (meaning I just hoped I hadn’t lost them again) and this bag does it better than anything I have ever seen.
There’s one more bag I use. The Peak Design Travel Camera Cube is a great way for me to pack gear into the sliding bed drawers in my work truck. These cubes also work well for inserting into backpacks. I used to use the F-64 bags for this job, but the Peak Design bags are less expensive, better padded and they are designed to be more adaptable. I have three of them and love them.
Digital Darkroom Hardware
This is the place where my workflow is constantly in flux. I have primarily used Apple computers for all my photography workflow. Changes in Apple’s approach forced me to switch to Windows. But to prove the old adage is true – software sells hardware. I prefer using Skylum Software to edit and I used Mac Logic Pro for my podcast editing so I switched back to the Apple 27″ iMac Pro with Retina 5K Display as my main computer. It is very fast and it has a great display but it is overpriced. To quote my friends from Brooklyn – “What you gonna do?”
I have the MacBook Pro (I hate that little touch strip across the top of the keyboard with an absolutely perfect hatred!) It’s a little better on the new machine because there is a physical escape key. I still think it is useless and hate it but I have no choice if I want a powerful laptop. I use the new 16″ MacBook Pro laptop because it is indeed powerful and has a great screen.
I also use an Apple 12.9″ iPad Pro w/ 512GB for some applications. Like I said, I am stuck in the Apple eco-system.
I prefer the innovation I see from Microsoft but I need software that runs on Apple products and I am very sucked into the Apple eco-system no matter how hard I try to escape it. So I am giving up. At my advanced age I just have to stick with what works for me. And I have plenty of company. Most the professional photographers I know use Apple products. And to be fair, they have vastly improved over the last two years and the new AR capability of the latest iPad could have big impacts on the video/3D work I do.
When it comes to storage, redundancy and backup, I currently recently switched to two LaCie d2 Professional 10TB USB-C and USB 3.0 External Hard Drives. These units have a USB 3.1 Type-C port that is compatible with Thunderbolt 3 devices. The drive bay features a BarraCuda Pro enterprise-class drive, which spins at 7200 rpm and offers data transfer rates of up to 240 MB/s.
For some jobs that require me to go mobile, I have had good experience with the LaCie 4TB Rugged Thunderbolt / USB-C Mobile HDD. These are cheap and very portable. I have a dozen of them and use them now with confidence, since I’ve been traveling with them and they are very sturdy.
For even lighter travel, I use two SanDisk 2TB Extreme Portable USB 3.1 Type-C External SSD drives. They are super fast and very small. Easy to pack and ship and take out into the field.
I am happy to announce I found a memory card I like better than the Sony. The SD Card V90 (64GB) -Up to 250MB/s Write Speed and 300 MB/s Read Speed | for Professional Vloggers, Filmmakers, Photographers & Content Curators by ProGrade Digital is my new card of choice. This is a super fast and durable card. Some people reported issues with the Sony card being too thick. So I kept up my research and found a better alternative. I am switching 100% of my memory cards to the ProGrade Digital brand.
I use the ProGrade Digital USB 3.1 Gen 2 Dual-Slot SD Card Reader because it is the fastest way to move images from my SD cards to my computer.
This card reader delivers transfer speeds of up to 1.25 GB/s when one slot is being used, or speeds of up to 675 MB/s when both slots are being used simultaneously. Power is received through the USB bus, meaning that no external power sources are required, and a magnetic base helps it stay secure within your workspace. Included are a USB Type-C to Type-C cable and a USB Type-C to Type-A cable.
Digital Darkroom Software
I have switched back to Adobe Creative Cloud using primarily Photoshop but occasionally Lightroom. The reason is simple. Adobe has significantly updated both programs over the last two years, adding some features I really like and in my opinion, earning my $10 a month.
For my video work, I have switched to Final Cut Pro X. I was using Premiere Elements but frankly found it too slow and I didn’t like the interface. I was originally intimidated by Final Cut Pro but quickly realized that I didn’t need to worry. I think it’s power to ease-of-use ratio makes it the best choice for stills photographers who also shoot and edit video.
The biggest change to my post-processing workflow came this year when I added Topaz Labs DeNoise AI. I am literally shocked at how well it works. I shoot ISO 3200 or even higher with no reservations now that I use DeNoise. You can download and try it for free and if you do, I am sure you will switch. It is truly amazing. (Use the code “methods” to save 15% off any purchase.)
And speaking of amazing…I am also using Topaz Labs Gigapixel AI. It is a standalone application for superior image upsampling. It can batch resizing your images up to 6x! I personally have never needed to use it at more than 3X and usually just 2X but man, it works well. In fact, it adds back in sharpening and reduces noise in the process. I have never seen anything like it. It uses the power of Topaz’s proprietary Artistic Intelligence engine to make sharper and clearer upscaled images more than traditional upscaling tools.
For those who think they need a new camera with more megapixels, forget it. Save a bucket of money and just buy Gigapixel AI. It too is available to download for free as a trial. (Use the code “methods” to save 15% off any purchase.)
For those of you who have been asking me how I make my photo-paintings, the answer is Topaz Labs Studio II, and the Impression Filter. I have played around somewhat with Corel but now am full-time just using Studio Impression. You can use one of many presets or like I did, design your own. You can apply the effect to your photos using opacity sliders and masks on layers so you have complete control. I am selling lots of prints using this approach and highly recommend it for those of you who need a creative spark.
It is available to download for free as a trial. (Use the code “methods” to save 15% off any purchase.)
Lastly, I have switched to Topaz Labs Sharpen AI. I don’t think most of my images need much in the way of sharpening. My preference is to add detail via Luminar 4. But when I do need help sharpening images, I have to say Sharpen AI takes it to a next level.
Many of my students have trouble focusing images and believe it or not, I have actually taken student work that is just a touch out of focus and sharpened it to look IN FOCUS using Sharpen AI. You have to see it to believe it. It’s very simple and easy to use and is available to download for a free trial. (Use the code “methods” to save 15% off any purchase.)
If you photograph outdoors in bright sunlight, you need the following:
Hoodman HoodLoupe Camera Viewfinder
and the accessory –
Hoodman Link Retractable HoodLoupe Lanyard
Just carry the Hoodman on your lanyard, attached to your belt and anytime you need to check your LCD you can do so free of interference from the bright sun.
I have tried to find a more environmentally favorable solution to hand warmers than the disposables, but the only company making an alternative stopped. So I am back to recommending the HotHands Hand Warmers. I have used them for years. They just work and work well.
These hand warmers also work in your boots to keep your feet warm. Bring a bunch of them and you’ll be able to stay in the field longer.
If you work in outdoor areas where there are bugs, you’re gonna want some of this stuff (assuming you’re not allergic.) OFF! Deep Woods Mosquito and Insect Repellent Wipes
Another valuable accessory for outdoor photography is a head net. I use the Benvo Head Net Mesh, Protective Cover Mask Face from Insect Bug Bee Mosquito Gnats. It fits over my hat and doesn’t keep me from using the viewfinder.
Be sure to get a good hat with UV protection. I have had skin cancer and I wish I’d have understood the need to wear a hat that offers SPF protection from the sun. I don’t go anywhere without a hat these days and I strongly recommend the Sunday Afternoons Adventure Hat. It offers the following features. . .
- UPF 50+ certified breathable sun rating (mesh vents not rated)
- Water repellent / stain resistant
- Lightweight: 3 ounces
I start early and sometimes shoot late so I rely on an LED headlamp to help me see what I’m doing if the sun isn’t up. I like the Coast products because they are inexpensive but well built.
I like the COAST FL13 Dual-Color Utility Beam COB LED Headlamp and have switched to this as my main light when I need hands-free illumination.
This one is amongst the most powerful you can buy with up to 250-lumen outputs. Solid or blinking red outputs to give it a versatile usability that is perfect for just about any job that requires you to have abundant light while keeping both hands free.
At $19 it should be in every photographer’s gear bag.
While not absolutely necessary, the Olympus HLD-9 Power Battery Grip certainly is helpful in several ways for those still shooting with the Olympus OM-D E-M1 MK II camera body. It makes shooting verticals (handheld) mach more comfortable. It adds bulk to the camera which is a good thing for some of us who have bigger hands. And it stores a second battery. I keep one body with the battery grip in my bag and one without.
I believe patience is the number one tool in any bird photographer’s kit. To that end, I often find myself simply waiting on a bird to come to my preferred background. Because it’s less wear and tear on my old body, I prefer to sit while I wait. The very portable, lightweight, but sturdy Mini Max Portable & Collapsible Stool is the perfect field stool. I simply never leave home without mine. (I used to use the Walkstool Comfort but I believe that the Mini Max is superior because it is easier to sit on when on an uneven surface, less expensive and more comfortable.)
I hate dust on my sensor and thankfully, the Olympus camera I use simply doesn’t have a problem in that regard. But in case there is a problem, I use the Promaster Lens Kit. It is effective and affordable and can also be used to clear any exterior dust and debris from any and all of your camera gear.
The Olympus RM-CB2 Release Cable is a great help when you are shooting for long periods on a tripod. Instead of getting sore arms, shoulders and a sore neck by keeping your face planed to the viewfinder for hours at a time, you can just sit back and watch the LCD, firing when you see movement from the birds.
While it has limited use (flight photography with the 300mm lens) I do like the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. It has limited utility but has helped me track birds in flight so I always have it with me just in case.
I also never leave home without my pair of Olympus 10×42 Pro Binoculars. This set is waterproof and comes outfitted with a high magnification and generous objective lens configuration. Weighing only two pounds, they are comfortable and sharp as can be.
The 3 Legged Thing Toolz Multi-Tool belongs in EVERY photographer’s gear bag. It has a variety of uses and is a Godsend for those of us who use Arca-Swiss compatible plates and tripods.
The Nomad Kevlar USB-C/Universal Cable might seem like an odd thing on a photography gear list, but if you have lots of devices like I do, i.e., smart phones, tablets, desktop/laptop computers, digital cameras, etc., then you know that often is the case where the connection between these devices is difficult because they all use different cables/connectors/standards.
The Nomad Kevlar USB-C/Universal Cable solves that problem by offering a way to quickly transition between USB-A, USB-C, and Micro USB connectors to charge your devices.
The cable is reinforced with a double-braided Kevlar outer sheath and strong metal alloy connector housings. I have one in each of my camera bags – just in case.
The Visual Departures MicroGaffer Tape that I carry with me everywhere I go has saved my bacon on many an occasion. You never, ever know when it will come in handy to have a roll of gaffer tape with you and it doesn’t matter what kind of photography you do. You may need some gaffer tape so make sure you have a roll at all times.
I am thrilled with the results I get from this gear and very thankful to the engineers who created the Micro Four Thirds format. Without it, my shooting career might be over. Thankfully, I don’t feel like I’ve had to compromise at all to make this switch and in fact, feel like I’ve gotten better images as a result. If you are interested in this gear don’t worry, it’s more than capable if you are.